As I stand and straighten out my right leg, I sigh as now the process needs to be repeated. I think to myself how top roping has never been this difficult – ever.
After 6 days of effort, I was finally able to link the shoulder breaking first move, the dreaded foot traverse, the tricky horizontal arete, the unintuitive hand flip, and the sharp finish to produce possibly Joe’s Valley’s hardest boulder problem!
"The best climber is the one having the most fun" Michael has taken a step back from the professional climbing world and rediscovered it for what got him into it in the first place. For fun!
Me: Dude, I’m planning on checking out that crack at The Promontory! What do you think? Will it go free? Is it cool? I’m all psyched!
Steven: Yep, it’ll go free for sure. I did al l the moves up to the last 30 feet. The climb will be mega. Like really classic. And the gear is bomber.
Me: Dude, YES! Best news I’ve heard all month! I’m sofa king psyched!!! You said you did all the moves up to the last 30 feet…what’s after that?
Steven: An awesome looking headwall! Looks like it might be pretty runout but you’re high off the deck at that point. The roof section is hard and that’s before the headwall so it’ll be a toughie!
“The climber’s strongest muscle is the brain” – Wolfgang Gullich Mad Rock athlete Stephan Vogt spent over 20 days in a span of 5 years projecting one the most famous sport climbs in the world. Action Directe 5.15a
